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    9/3/2008

    刘家峡-临夏-夏河

    今天一天都在赶路,从刘家峡到临夏就是90公里的路,走了4个小时。中间要摆渡过黄河,虽然很宽的河面估计有几公里,但摆渡船走了近一个小时,也太夸张了。
     
    临夏是回族自治州首府,城也比较大,但是在大兴土木,最不喜欢这样的城市。没怎么停留就直接奔夏河了。夏河地处两座高山之间,是一座十分偏僻的小镇。
     
    刚一进入藏区境内,天一下子就蓝了,心情也舒展了许多。让我想起去年此时走川藏线时的种种精彩,青藏高原的蓝天真让人喜爱,再阴郁的心情也会晴朗起来。
     
    到达夏河已近5点,住下后就去很近的拉卜楞寺看看。因为晚了也没人要门票了,看好了逃票的路线,明早再来拍照。拉卜楞寺周围有着世界上最长的转经墙,据说是有近4公里,我走了一半,正看到拉卜楞寺主寺,就进去了。
     
    拉卜楞寺还有着世界上最大的藏传佛教喇嘛学院,常年大约有超过600名喇嘛在此学习佛教知识。经过学校是听到朗朗的咏经声,在将晚的暮色里格外悦耳。镇子上很多喇嘛,跟百姓的生活融为一体。我感觉到他们没有去年在西藏旅行时那种友善的笑脸了,有了隔阂,修缮起来就没那么容易了。
     
    只有小孩子们从不理会世俗间的政治与隔阂,你跟他们打招呼,或是拍照,还是很高兴。有一个17岁的小喇嘛还邀请我去他家坐了会儿,他们哥俩租了拉卜楞寺旁边的这个小院落,常年在此休行佛教。而且周围很大面积的房屋,围绕着拉卜楞寺,都成了喇嘛学院的宿舍,规模真的很大。
     
    我向小喇嘛说了再见,抬头看了看湛蓝的天空,远处炊烟渺渺升起,还是和平的世界最美好。

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    mzqyan Qianwrote:
    文章不知道跑哪儿去了!!!!
    Feb. 1

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